Wool & Cloth
History: Edexcel A Level England, 1509-1603, topic 4.1.1
Significance of the Wool and Cloth Trade
Wool and cloth were England’s primary exports in Tudor England.

Raw wool
- Raw wool was originally England’s primary export. The Tudor government sought to change this to finished woollen products.
- In 1489, Henry VII limited the export of English raw wool and made it illegal for foreigners to buy English raw wool for use on the continent.

Cloth industry
- Cloth production was regional, flourishing in the West of England.
- Cloth was produced by hand.

Cloth exports
- Henry VII believed that Burgundy (a region in modern-day France) was England’s gateway to trade with the continent.
- In 1496 Henry VII signed the Intercursus Magnus treaty with Burgundy.
- It allowed English merchants to trade freely throughout Burgundy, except in Flanders.
- Under Henry VII, English cloth exports were up over 60%.
- Under Henry VIII, exports of woollen items increased by 100%.
New Draperies in Tudor England
New lightweight cloths began to be produced in England. These were called the ‘New Draperies’.

Immigrant craftsmen
- In the 1560s, artisans (invited by the English government) from France and the Netherlands began to immigrate to England.
- These craftsmen introduced new types of cloth to the English industry.
- These included cloths such as silk and linen.

Demand for new draperies
- There was a high demand for new draperies in northern and southern Europe.
- Over the decades, new draperies began to dominate English exports.

Role of London
- Primarily, trade was conducted through London.
- The metropole became the heart of England’s (and her growing empire’s) economy.

Role of migrant workers
- Historians have noted that ‘alien’ workers from the Netherlands contributed to the growth of the new drapery techniques in England.
- Coleman (1969): argued that the existing cloth industry was stagnating in England.
- However, some historians have challenged this assessment.
- Kerridge (1969): The role of immigrants in reviving England’s cloth industry have been over exaggerated.

Regional impact of immigrants
- Immigrant workers settled in certain regions in England.
- Allison (1966) on the cloth industry in Norfolk: By the 1560s it was recognised that “only a radical change from traditional methods and products could have enabled Norfolk to compete with continental worsteds”.
- Coleman (1969): “Those who went to Colchester helped to bring a major transformation of the output of the important Suffolk-Essex industry after their arrival in the 1570’s.”
- The East Anglian industry was directly impacted by immigrants. In response, other areas adjusted without immigrants.

Hostility to immigrants
- In 1517, Londoners rose up in a xenophobic riot. This was called ‘Evil May Day’.
- The riot was targeted against merchants from the Hanseatic League.
- Due to the rise of merchants from Antwerp and within England, Hanseatic merchants were expelled in 1597.
Test yourself on Wool & Cloth
Originally, what was England's primary export?
Where did Henry VII believe England's gateway to trade with the continent was?
Where was the heart of England's economy?